It is almost that time a year where many of us get to shed our clothes and soak in some rays down at the local water hole. This year 1970’s fashion is on the rise and I just can’t help but browse through some of favorite photos of 70’s swimwear. From European designer beach wear to southern California surf-wear, 1970’s swimwear had a a style and appeal all of its own.
There are certain keys to follow when dating vintage swimwear:
-Lastex began to be used in swimwear starting in the late 30’s and continued through the 50’s.
-Spandex, better known as elastane in Europe, began to be used in swimsuits in the late 60’s. Dupont patented this as Lycra.
-Fabric content on labels was mandated in the 1960’s
-Garment care instructions seen on labels beginning in 1971
-Symbols on care labels began in the 1990’s in the US, earlier elsewhere
Model Cheryl Tiegs at the beach in an orange bikini with white polka dots by Villager, with a man reclining on chaise — Image by © Condé Nast Archive/CORBIS
Famous Farrah Fawcett Poster on most adolescent boy’s walls in the 1970’s
Cheryl Tiegs swimsuit pose
Classic One-piece and Two piece swimsuit designs from the 70’s
Modern bathing suit with exact 1970’s glamor cut
Arnold Schwarzenegger in his prime with a wig-wearin’ female friend, circa 1970s.
Surf Rats Hanging out at the beach
Christie Brinkley Sporting a colorful one piece
1970’s European Men’s Matching Swimwear
Mark Richards matching his board shorts with his surfboard
Larry Bertlemann pure classic style
Kids 19070’s beachwear
North shore 1970’s beach fashion
1970’s Venice Beach
MR Ripping the Bottom Turn
The Dry Leaf (Folha Seca) from Brazilian based Lets EVO is a clean way to travel and is made from some unique and sustainable materials developed by Fibra Sustainable Design. They start off with the Papunha veneer which is produced from the waste material of the sustainable palmheart industry. The use of this byproduct to construct a new sort of plywood extends the life cycle of the palm plant and provides income for small farmers who depend on this vegetation. The Dry Leaf is a stunningly elegant and creative endeavor from its inside out.
Natural fibers procured from fair trade and native to Brazil, such as jute, malva, and curaua, are used as a natural fiberglass along with recycled polypropylene. The use of these natural fibers benefits small farmers and produces no polluting waste material. The core of the Dry Leaf is Mosso Organic Bamboo which is grown sustainably in Brazil and treated with non-toxic vegetable based adhesives.
The Dry Leaf was submitted to Volvo’s EcoDesign competition and was a finalist for the 2008 competition earlier this year.
Used skateboard decks continue to pile up due to the production of over 100,000 decks per month in the United States alone. Reply explores this material waste stream as a resource for women’s shoes. By utilizing the overall shape and material properties found within the deck, the women’s shoe takes on an interesting aesthetic quality. This project is also a reapplication of waste skateboard decks in an unexpected way. By taking a movement-based leisure product mainly utilized by males, a creative method of reuse is reapplied to a movement-based market for Eco-conscious women.
see more of Kris’s conceptual design projects @ krislovett.com
This week TreeHuggerTV teams up with with Comet Skateboards and learns how a sustainable skateboard company is bringing kids from different hoods together for one unified purpose. Comet uses sustainably harvested bamboo and non-toxic resins to make its hip pin-striped topped skateboards and their manufacturing plant uses a 10KW solar panel array to fuel the process. Comet is also a place based company and is dedicated to making a positive impact on its community as well as the environment. In addition to raising funds for a sustainably designed skate park in downtown Oakland CA, Comet has collaborated with local skaters to put on Hood Games. Hood Games 4 brought together a truly remarkable gathering of the skateboarders, parents, and friends for a full day of music, art, and of course â€“ ecofriendly skateboarding!
VERTRAMPS The two photos contain diagrams and an outline for building yourself a solid halfpipe ramp for full-on vertical skating, which many swear is the ultimate proving ground for skaters of all time. The dimensions (24′ wide, 16′ of flat bottom, 9’6″ transition with 1’6″ of vertical wall) are commonly used for several reasons: they reflect the fact that plywood is widely available in 4×8′ sheets, and 2×4 and 2×6 studs are usually bought in 8′ and 16′ lengths. Using lumber with these standard dimensions will add up to a nice 24-footer without wasting cut-off ends and creating a lot of useless scraps. If you lack funds or material, you can always cut back on your needs by building a smaller ramp, or by making the whole thing portable so you don’t need a foundation. Just remember: cheap is cheap. So, if you’ve got the money and the materials, build it big and strong without cutting corners. It will pay off in the long run.
FOUNDATION Once you find a site to build on, it is important to make sure it is close to level. A level bottom framework makes everything else fall into place easier. If you are building on an incline, dirt, or uneven ground, you might want to elevate your frame on posts. To do this, sink 4×4 redwood or pressure treated posts at least two feet into the ground and leave them sticking up high enough at the low end to run a level horizontal beam between them. If you want to build a super-sturdy foundation, lay the bottom framework on top of posts sunk in wider post-holes that are filled with cement (see page 10, figure 1). Posting also lifts the structure off the ground, thereby keeping rot and insect damage in check for a longer period. Besides protecting your ramp, it is required in some areas that permanent wooden structures be raised above the ground. If you are building on hard, flat ground, cement, or asphalt, an easier, cheaper and less permanent way to build your foundation is to lay your 2×4 framework on the ground and level with shims of scrap plywood. Whichever of these three bottom framework variations you have, be sure to thoroughly check it with a level before you continue; a slight tilt at this point can easily screw things up in the end. This part of the ramp will be mostly covered up, so make sure that it is solid before you move on to the next step. Use 2×6 beams and joists. Lay these in a rectangular box the size of the ramp. In our case it would be 16′ of flatbottom plus two 9’6″ radius transitions and two 4′ rollout decks. Your framework will be 43′ long and 24′ wide. Brace this structure with 2×4’s spaced 12″ apart (on center; see glossary) under the flat section. Traditional let-in bracing should be used here; ask a carpenter how it should be done. Place the 2×4 joists in the frame with the 2″ side facing up and sitting flush with the top of the 2×4 beams. Secure the joists with two 16dd nails in each end, or two equivalently-sized screws whichever you prefer. The joists will act as a solid base for connecting the plywood to the flatbottom section.
Thanxs for the info Thrasher