Enjoy what life gives, not what you take.

What can I say? I finally feel like everything went back to normal, as if it had to, as if there was really no other choice. Each day that it lasted all who partook had a sneaky grin on there face, morning after morning as they thought to themselves," RIGHT ON, another day and its double overhead." Those blessed enough to be in southern California, during the Christmas swell that snuck into a New Year swell, and then the beginning of 2006 swell, 3 weeks of grinding, Epic surf, know exactly what I felt. Morning after morning you would check the local spot's that were handling this much swell the best. Another day of pumping surf and instantly you plan your day, think of the tides, think of the wind factor, what appointments you can postpone and clients you can put off just one more day. After all swell's in California don't last that long. This thing should die off eventually.

Maybe it is as simple as the first time as a kid you through a ball up in the air and had the sudden realization, "what goes up, must come down." After 3 weeks, the swell did eventually go down. The reports turned back the normal colors, and I had to put my 6'7" back on the racks, and bust out my 5'11" fish and 6'3" performance board. I can't complain, California is pretty consistent, and that last 10 year swell was one of the best I have partaken in on the Southern California coast. I have lived in Central America and traveled overseas only in search for waves that were half as nice as what I was scoring in right at home. I can only rejoice in the fact that I was there to clock in my own tube time, big turns and air drop take-offs. All good things much eventually come to an end, let's face it, nothing would get done around hear if it didn't. Enjoy what life gives, not what you take.

Thanks for the photo's Surfline.